2009 Weingut Robert Weil, Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Erstes Gewachs, Rheingau

Exuberant bouquet combines star fruit, honeysuckle and bay leaf. Dense apricot pit flavor and slate-driven minerality are nicely juxtaposed on the palate. Finishes with excellent depth and spicy character.

The Weil 2009 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Erstes Gewachs was picked early in November, a week later than its non-Erstes Gewachs counterpart; was vinified 80% in cask (rather than around 50% as with Weils other single-vineyard dry Rieslings); and was exposed to additional lees-stirring. The sheer volume (at 13.5% alcohol), breadth, and (satiny) textural caress here surpasses the other dry wines in the present collection, but I miss the sense of primary juiciness, vivacity, interplay, and florality that accrue to its ostensibly lesser sibling. The more plastic, statuesque sense to this wine may well be whats intended, but strikes me as less winsome as well as less typical of the unique sort of elegance of which Riesling from this great site (or for that matter other top Rheingau vineyards) is capable. Fruit pit piquancy and chalk and stone mineral intimations inform a formidably persistent finish. I would anticipate at least 10-12 years of impressive performance though Weil expects his wine to far exceed my conservative prognostication. As Wilhelm Weil points out, by the time he began harvesting in early October, 2009 – sooner than has been usual under his regime – the grapes had already been hanging for 115 days, and the fact that the weather cooled thereafter and Kiedrichs hillside sites continued to enjoy regular breezes were positive factors in adding further concentration – including of acidity – to the finished wines. In consequence, he insists that “while 2007 and 2008 were very good vintages; 2009 is for our estate on a different level … among my 22 vintages, near the forefront.” Weil is now offering a range of three single-vineyard dry Rieslings in addition to his Erstes Gewachs but says his vision is of a tier of “premier crus” and one of “grand crus,” with only a single dry wine eventually being labeled “Grafenberg.” The issue is not merely academic, I would argue, but has stylistic implications. As my notes indicate, I found the style of Weils allegedly “second” dry Grafenberg from 2009 both more attractive and more recognizably of its site than the corresponding Erstes Gewachs. (For specific differences in approach consult those detailed notes.) Weil further intends to streamline his offerings by eventually reaching some sort of stylistic compromise between his generic Kabinett halbtrocken and his unabashedly sweet Kabinett (both of which characteristically come from the Wasseros), although he admits to some uncertainty about closing what is analytically-speaking a roughly 30 gram gap in residual sugar between these two. As both president of the local VDP chapter and arguably his regions most prominent grower and quality standard bearer, how Wilhelm Weil perceives and elects to act on classificatory, stylistic, and marketing issues can have considerable influence on the future evolution of Rheingau Riesling. Even the least among this years residually sweet Weil offerings is extremely high acid on paper. In most cases, this is positively enervating, although at times strident. Weil indicates that only beyond the level of Spatlese was any significant botrytis present, even then requiring extreme diligence and patience to collect even small volumes. And as in many instances this vintage, the present collections apex of quality does not coincide with its apex in must weights. Imported by Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

Somehow the 2009 did not hit me like the 2008. The spirity character on the nose is clean enough and expresses ripeness. Maybe it is a little more closed on the palate, there can be no doubt about the mouthfeel of depth and concentration. Just a glimpse of Mandarine Napoleon fruit with spot-on acidity promises but does not quite deliver the same excitement as last year. Mea culpa? (MS)

Broad and smoky and sleeker than Turmberg but denser and heavier. Firm and big. Very youthful. (JR)