2019 Ipsus Gran Selezione, Caggio, Chianti Classico

I have closely followed this wine since its first edition in 2015, and although the brand continues to expand on what is so far a limited track record, this is the best edition made thus far. A special project put forth by the Mazzei family of Castello di Fonterutoli, the Caggio 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ipsus is a very etched and linear wine with an extreme sense of minimality and definition that I find irresistible. Notes of graphite and pencil shaving are followed by wild fruit, blue flower and melting tannins. The wine is light on its feet. The 2019 vintage set the stage for spot-on phenolic ripening with bright primary fruit that was submitted to some time in clay vessels followed by tonneaux and botte. In terms of fermentation, the team is moving away from punch-downs to embrace more delicate submerged cap instead. The 2019 vintage is slightly more concentrated compared to 2018, with a darker quality of fruit. Some 4,500 bottles were made.

Picked as late as 4 October. ‘A perfect vintage’, says winemaker Gionata Pulignani . 10% of the juice didn’t see oak: aged 70% in tonneaux (100% new), 20% in 15-hl barrels and 10% in ceramic vats for 26 months, followed by a further 6 months in ceramic then 14 months in bottle before release. TA 5.63 g/l, pH 3.5. Sweet and spicy nose. Juicy and floral. Rather exotic. Hedonistic and approachable. Tropical flowers – lilies? – on the nose. Very polished. (JR)